Knots are what keeps you safe, so there’s no way to go wrong. There is only one solution: identify the suitable node and train.
If in doubt ? Call in the double check or a review with a professional!
THE KNOT OF EIGHT, THE ESSENTIAL
Certainly the first one learned by any climber to rope in!
A mnemonic device? “I make a bridge, I go around the bridge, and I go back under the bridge!”
(some will remember the less watered-down version of the doll, but to avoid any nightmare, it is better not to mention it here ^^).
Warning: the rope is then passed through the 2 attachment points of the trigger guard (except for single- bridge harnesses). Before following the 8 in the opposite direction with the end of the rope.
NOTE: We play the safety card and we always accompany it with a stopper knot , so remember to provide enough rope upstream;)
THE CHAIR KNOT, EASY TO UNDO
You are working on a project and you risk to chain the weights? The chair knot has the advantage of being easier to untie than the 8 knot even after one (or more) theft (s)!
However, beware: few climbers know how to achieve it and especially how to control it. Double checking then becomes obsolete … A knot to be reserved for experienced climbers.
NOTE: Node completely inoperative without stop node, danger!
WHAT TO INSURE? THE HALF-CAPSTAN!
The half-capstan, allows a rope to slide in a carabiner while absorbing part of the energy. This is why it can be used by a first of the rope to ensure his second or to replace a descender in case of breakage.
Tip: by keeping the 2 strands parallel (at the entry and exit of the carabiner), we reduce the risk of creating strands (this is the big problem with belaying with a capstan);)
With this knot we can recommends the use of an HMS carabiner (HMS means in German Halb Mastwurf Sicherung, or half capstan). Their shape gives them a wider opening of the finger, which facilitates handling … And of course always lock it well!
Instructions for use: come and make 1 loop around the bottom of the carabiner, then pass the strand in front of the rope to slip a second loop in the carabiner. By tightening you will immediately feel that the rope tightens the carabiner which mechanically brakes the rope if necessary.
THE CAPSTAN, TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL
Perfect for cowhiding at the relay when you are short of cows and loins …
Easy to make with one hand, it is easy to use and unload, which makes handling simple.
Also read: 6 Good Reasons to Mountain Bike
The Team’s little tip: if you have a choice in terms of gear, prefer to use it with a pear carabiner (larger) for more comfort.
THE DOUBLE FISHERMAN, TO MAKE YOUR HOMEMADE MACHARD
This sliding knot is used to tie two ropes together or to loop a rope on itself .
Put the ends of the two ropes facing each other. Then make a fisherman’s knot on a strand.
Do the same by reversing the ropes, and you will have two fisherman’s knots.
By pulling on the strings, you will tighten the knots and bring them together until they click together. There it should not move!
& LE MACHARD, FOR REMINDERS
Strictly speaking, this knot is not really a knot. It serves as a safety device to block the rope in the event of an incident lord of the abseiling descents (in a catastrophic scenario, the climber stunned by a possible fall of stone, would let go of the descender and would be blocked thanks to the machard, rather than hurtling down the hill. unconscious rope … understandably, it is better to know its basics;). Instructions for use: pass a ring of cord through your carabiner then wrap the ring in a spiral around the abseil rope and pass the other end of the ring through the carabiner (remember to lock it). And let’s go for the descent!
The advantage of the machard compared to other self-locking knots (French and especially Prussik) is that it is then easily unblockable. However, on very small diameter ropes it may have less tightening capacity.
Here you have the base of the knots necessary to secure and handle the ropes on the walls.
If you are just starting out, practice and have your technique checked by experienced climbers to make sure you are doing the right knots.
And you, which knots have you discovered as you progressed?